2008
Is Sicily's Best Vintage In Ten Years
Regione
Sicilia, Italy - There is an excited buzz on the island
of Sicily. The weather in 2008 was ideal for wine growing and,
with the harvest now in, both the red and white wines are proving
to be of exceptional quality. The last couple of years have
seen warmer temperatures and a little more rain than is typical
for the island. While the wines from these vintages showed great
quality, creating a heightened interest around the globe for
Sicily's table wines, the 2008 harvest was gifted with superb
weather causing less stress among the island's winegrowers and
wine makers.
Wineries
such as Carlos Pellegrino, Donnafugata,
Tasca d'Almerita, Donna Franca
and Feudo Arancio are all reporting on their
better than average harvest this year. They are thrilled with
the traditional warm to hot temperatures and generally dry weather.
Rainfall was just under the island's usual, but with the varietals
on Sicily being fully acclimated to its Mediterranean climate,
this did not cause the vines undue stress.
Initially,
the hot, dry weather of 2008 had Gaetana Jacono of Valle dell
Acate winery worried about the harvest. "I took one look
at my father's face, which is normally grim at harvest, and
he had a good smile on his face-and his hair was ok and not
like a punk." Jacono explained, "I understood then
that all was ok." Jacono's father, the owner of Valle dell'Acate,
further surprised her by announcing, in the middle of harvest,
"Tomorrow, I am not coming into the winery; I prefer to
stay on the beach." Jacono laughs, "It was then that
I understood that all was not only ok, but very, very good."
Harvest
Begins : The Whites
Harvest
began the first week of August for many wineries. Feudo Arancio
started by picking their Pinot grigio, followed by Chardonnay.
Arancio's Grillo, a white grape native to the island, was picked
a month later. The Grillo grape produces a popular white wine
on the island made in a crisp, fruity style. Arancio's head
winemaker, Matteo Covazzi, noted the high quality in each of
the white wines made in 2008.
"These
first white wines are elegant, fruity and full-bodied, with
a vibrant bouquet that shows no signs of sun overexposure or
loss of aromas in the winemaking process," Covazzi explained.
The
Donna Franca winery also started by harvesting their Pinot grigio
and Chardonnay, with Grillo following a month later. Later still
was the winery's Carricante grapes from the cooler Mount Etna
region on the northeastern tip of the island. Carricante is
another indigenous grape to Sicily, with plantings concentrated
on the slopes of Mount Etna. The Carricante grape produces crisply
delicious dry white wines with lots of intriguing minerality.
The
Reds
Feudo
Arancio's first reds to be harvested were Pinot noir and Merlot.
"This year's red vintage seems to be exceptional thanks
to ideal ripeness without any kind of stress from hot weather,"
Covazzi explains. Syrah came next, followed by Cabernet sauvignon.
The island's star grape, the native Nero d'Avola (called Calabrese
on the island), came in even after the famously late Cabernet
sauvignon. Nero d'Avola wines have been winning fans across
the world with its deep color, body and aging potential.
Old Traditions New Again
The Donnafugata winery noted that its indigenous varietals thrived
during the 2008, having long ago adapted to the island's climate.
Nero d'Avola, Ansonica, Catarratto, and Zibibbo are a few of
the varietals mentioned as doing particularly well in 2008.
The winery has been night harvesting its grapes for the past
ten years. "It is traditional to pick grapes at night,
but we fell away from this practice for a time, only to pick
it back up in 1998," notes Alessia Panzeca from the Donnafugata
winery. Panzeca explained "We do this in order to prevent
unwanted fermentation while transporting the grapes from the
vineyard to the cellar, but at the same time it conserves 70%
of the energy it takes to cool the grapes down prior to pressing."
Night harvesting photos can be viewed on their website at www.donnafugata.it.
When
asked about the most promising varietals from the 2008 harvest,
wineries from all over the island responded with a long and
seemingly comprehensive list of all of the varietals planted
on this 9,926 square mile stretch of land : Grillo, Chardonnay,
Insolia, Cataratto, Frappato, Nero d'Avola, Moscato, Zibibbo,
Perricone, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, among many others.
For
further information on the Wines of Sicily, please contact Paul
Wagner at Balzac Communications, pwagner@balzac.com, 707 255
7667.